Bahamas off the Beaten Path: A Sailing Charter in the Exumas
Sun, sea, and sand, all wrapped up in a sustainable package with zero crowds: Our sailing charter in the Exumas was our definition of perfect.
Problem: I basically want to be skimming across brilliant blue water in the Caribbean 365 days a year, but cruise ships are my living nightmare. The crowds, the pollution, the cookie-cutter experience… it’s just not the way I like to travel. Unfortunately, I do not have the skills to safely navigate a boat myself (though I suppose being shipwrecked in the Bahamas could be ok…). And I always assumed that chartering one’s very own sailboat was a luxury reserved for the rich and famous (I napped on the ground at the airport en route to this trip, so clearly that label doesn’t apply to me!).
Solution: Some digging online motivated by a depressingly dreary Seattle winter paid off when I found Amarok Sailing Charters! A week sailing through the Exuma Islands in the Bahamas on a private boat that didn’t break the bank – it was basically a dream come true.
Here’s everything you need to know about our sailing charter in the Exumas on the Amarok:
The Hosts
This is a skippered charter, meaning you are renting the sailboat along with the crew. (You can also hire “bareboat” charters elsewhere, but that means you’re only getting the boat – no crew or provisions – so I hope you’ve taken sailing lessons!)
Joe and Angela, the married couple who own and live on the Amarok, have been running sailing trips for almost 40 years. They know the Bahamas like the backs of their hands. They’ll take you to gorgeous places where almost no one else goes, and they’ll do it safely. You can help sail if you want, but you don’t have to (Aaron was the only one of us brave enough to take the wheel, though the rest of us felt up to the less cerebral task of cranking in the sails from time to time.)
You don’t have to worry about anything. Angela prepares all your meals, and Joe plans the route and keeps you under sail. You’ll sleep on the boat each night (but make sure you sneak up to the deck to check out the stars first – on a clear night they’ll take your breath away).
Number of problems I currently have: Zero.
The Route
It’s flexible! We flew into Nassau, met up with the Amarok where she was moored at Yacht Haven, and set sail the next day. We spent a week exploring the Exuma Islands (a district of the Bahamas made up of 365 little islands), but you may end up somewhere different depending on the weather.
Joe and Angela are passionate about traveling under sail rather than just motoring around, so you’ll go where the winds take you! Each morning our hosts discussed our options with us over breakfast. (Which ridiculously beautiful island would you like to sail to today? Decisions are hard.)
Regardless of your route, you’ll be off the beaten path. Most of the islands we visited were uninhabited, unless you count iguanas or the famous swimming pigs! A day on the Amarok is spent sailing from island to island, snorkeling (Joe and Angela know the best spots!), and frolicking on deserted beaches. Check out our favorite photos to get a taste of what you’ll see.
The Cost
Researching this trip, we found charters charging a couple thousand dollars per person (or more). In comparison, the Amarok is very reasonable. If you can get a group of four or five friends together, a week on the Amarok will set you back about $1300 per person.
You can definitely take a cruise around the Bahamas for less than that, but I’d argue that you’ll come close after paying for drinks, shore excursions, and other extras. Plus, how do you calculate the cost of that giant carbon footprint? I haven’t tried, because you’d actually have to pay me to spend a week trapped in a floating theme hotel with thousands of other people (introverts, unite!).
Once you set foot on the Amarok, the trip is all inclusive – food, drinks, excursions, everything except booze. If you’re the type of traveler who likes a more down-to-earth and unique experience, it’s absolutely worth the price.
Snorkeling through the wreck of a plane crash – no other tourists in sight!
The Boat
The Amarok is a 41-foot Morgan Out Island ketch. She has room to comfortably sleep five adult guests, with a shared bathroom and shower. There is a small berth in the bow that sleeps two, and a fold-down couch and bed in the main living area that sleep three.
It’s close quarters below decks, so pick your sailing buddies wisely! These are pretty much the only people you’re going to see for a week – you decide if that’s a blessing or a curse. We liked everyone sailing with us so no one was thrown overboard.
Most of your time will be spent above deck anyway! The cockpit area is covered if you’re a sit-in-the-shade-and-read type, and there are plenty of outside perches if you’re more the sun-and-sea-spray type.
Yes, the water is really this blue.
The Sustainability Factor
When it comes to your impact on the environment, the Amarok is the anti-cruise.
The Amarok’s solar panel soaking up the last rays of sunlight
The boat’s electricity is supplied by solar panels soaking up sun on the stern, and a small wind turbine atop the mast. (They also have a small generator that’s usually running for about one hour a day.) The tap water is drinkable – it’s seawater that has been purified and desalinated on board.
The vast majority of your travel will be under sail. It’s amazingly peaceful (and pollution-free!) without the constant sound of a growling engine. Joe and Angela have called this pristine place their home for decades, and their respect for the environment is obvious.
The Packing List
Pack light! We scored early points with Captain Joe when he saw we had only packed one carry-on bag each (gotta keep the captain happy!).
You really don’t need much anyway. A few shirts, bathing suits, and a pair of shorts is all you’ll wear! I was barefoot 95% of the time but brought a pair of sandals for the beach (no black-soled shoes or sandals allowed on board). You’re not going anyplace fancy so you can leave the formal wear at home. Bring plenty of sunscreen (get the reef safe stuff!). There are beach towels on board.
Make sure to stock up your kindle with books and have some great music on hand for sailing and sunbathing! I’d also recommend an extra battery charger in case you need to juice up your electronics when the generator’s not running.
Bonus points for bringing a reusable water bottle to cut down on plastic waste and keep your hosts from having to wash extra dishes!
The Food
While Captain Joe sails, his wife Angela works some magic in the galley. What Angela can do in a tiny boat kitchen with limited supplies is nothing short of miraculous. She has some Hogwarts-style magic going on down there. I mean, the woman cooks while the boat is rocking and rolling under sail!
We dined on delicious meals like lobster risotto, conch salad, conch chowder, and the fresh catch of the day.Angela’s lobster mac and cheese was a crowd favorite. Each morning she laid out the table full of breakfast options, and she kept a shelf full of fresh fruit for us to snack on throughout the day. We knew something delicious was brewing whenever she picked from her little herb garden in the cockpit, and the smell of fresh basil wafted over the deck. She somehow even whipped up a chocolate cake for dessert!
I’m a vegetarian at home – because the meat industry is horrific to our planet and the animals – but I’m happy to indulge in fish, conch, and lobster straight from the ocean. Our hosts were very clear about what could be sustainably harvested – anything that didn’t meet the requirements stayed in the sea.
The catch – this trip is NOT for everyone!
The Amarok isn’t a luxury cruise line; it’s more like an Airbnb you share with your hosts. In fact, you will be living in Joe and Angela’s home. Treat it that way!
Make your bed, offer to dry dishes, and don’t get so wasted that they have to fish you out of the water. Basically, just be kind and appropriate (We’d like to keep these folks as friends so I’m not trying to send any nightmares their way!)
How do you know if you’re Amarok-friendly? We made you an easy checklist (you’re welcome!):
X This trip isn’t for you if:
• You can’t swim.
• You can’t survive off the grid for several days. You’re not going to have WiFi: PUT THE PHONE DOWN. For me, this was actually one of the perks.
• You don’t like seafood.
• You get terribly seasick. A little bit is no big deal (I couldn’t read my book while we were making the crossing through open water from Nassau to the Exumas, but Angela brought me a ginger ale and soon I was right as rain).
+ This trip is for you if:
• You don’t mind roughing it just a little. Space is tight, and if the boat is at capacity then a few of you will be sleeping in the shared living area. That means every night you’ll make your bed up, and every morning you’ll break it down again so everybody has a place to sit and eat. You’ll share one little bathroom, be limited to one shower a day to conserve resources, and you’ll have to pump the toilet to flush it.
• You like getting off the beaten path. Most of the islands you stop at will be uninhabited. This is more of an enjoy-the-sunset-and-go-to-bed-at-nine trip than a stay-out-all-night-clubbing trip.
• The environmentally damaging aspects of major cruises bother you.
• You like an individualized experience. If you’re flexible and ready for adventure, you’ll have the time of your life on the Amarok!
See how I tried to scare you off at the end there so we can have the Amarok all to ourselves?
We’re already planning a longer trip back so we can sail out to even more remote islands. If you book the Amarok for a sailing charter in the Exumas, we just ask that you leave room for us!
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